Saturday, July 6, 2013

Murray Riding Mower / Peerless 205-024C Transaxle Issue Solved

My Murray riding mower Model 46576x92B had been lacking power when moving in reverse, and it struggled going forward. The engine ran fine, it was something in the drivetrain that was giving me issues.  I've had this tractor since 1998 and it has worked great up until this year. I really didn't want to spend a bunch of money on another riding mower if I could fix this one. I just didn't know where to start other than the troubleshooting section in the manual.

I adjusted the linkage from the transmission and that really didn't help. The next thing I did was replace the belts. I figured since I've had the tractor for so long they could probably use replacing. Replacing the drive belt was not easy, but I did it. Unfortunately, that didn't fix the problem either. Drats! The tractor just had no power and could barely go up a hill anymore. Through the process of elimination and numerous web searches, I figured the problem had to be the transaxle. Some internet sites showed prices upwards of $400 for a new one.  What?!  Apparently I'm not the only person out there having this issue with the Peerless 205-024C Transaxle. There are a lot of posts from people with the same symptoms. A common conclusion is that the transaxle oil breaks down over time and must be replaced. Unfortunately I couldn't find many good articles on how to do this and everyone had their own unorthodox way to do it. Some guys were actually hoisting their tractor up from the front in order to drain the oil out of the transaxle. Really?  I'm here to tell you that changing the oil is not hard to do and most importantly, it DID fix the problem. It only makes sense that the fluid in a hydraulic system eventually loses its viscosity and won't work anymore. This certainly happens a lot faster when it gets overheated, which occurs when the transaxle gets covered with dirt and grass.

Since there seems to be a lot of people looking for some information on how to change the oil in this transaxle, I decided to take some photos and see if I could help out. If you have a little bit of mechanical ability, you can do it.

If you want to check if you even have oil in the transaxle, there are two rubber plugs on the top. You can get to them from the battery compartment, but if your transaxle was caked in dirt and dried grass like mine they're hard to spot. The one under the fan (left side) is for the hydraulic fluid, and the other is for the gear oil. Here is a photo showing their locations (after it's cleaned off, of course):



To change the hydrostatic oil, you'll need to remove the transaxle. Take the back wheels off and block up the back of the tractor so you can get to it. There is a shiny, square metal plate that houses a rubber bellows (see the photo below). This plate has to be removed to drain out the oil, but it sits in a position that won't let you do that while the transaxle is attached. There are only a handful of bolts to take off and they're easy to get to. You have to unhook the brake linkage and take off the drive belt too, but it's no big deal. Just remember where they go back. Put a jack or something underneath the transaxle before unbolting it, or have someone help hold it - the transaxle is actually quite heavy. Safety first.

Here is a photo of that plate that needs to be removed. There are four bolts that require a special type of torx bit, but I was able to drill them out and use a regular torx bit on them. Vice grips work too. Have the transaxle sitting vertically like this or the oil will spill out when you remove the plate. Once you remove the plate, you'll find a rubber bellows assembly inside that just lifts right out. The oil is under that. Simply dump it out into a container by tilting the transaxle over. Try to get out as much as you can, but as long as you get most of it you should be ok.


As far as what kind of oil to put back into it, I've read a lot of posts and there are some similarities on what to use. Sure, you can spend $45 and get the bellows kit and oil directly from a Murray distributor, but more than likely there is nothing wrong with the rubber bellows. Some small engine dealers sell hydrostatic fluid, and I assume that will work. Me, I used synthetic motorcycle oil 20W-50. Several people said its viscosity works great for this transaxle. I bought 2 quarts and simply poured it in where that plate was until when I installed the bellows the oil was right at the top. One thing you'll want to do is get the air out, so rock the transaxle back and forth until you don't see any more air bubbles. The oil should be running out around the edges of the square metal plate when you put it back on. Tighten the screws, wipe it off,  and that is it. Now reinstall the transaxle back onto your tractor.

Well, my Murray riding mower ran like it was brand new after I changed that oil. I've been using it for several months now and have had no more issues with power or sluggishness. In another 5 to 10 years if I have the same symptoms I know what to do.

This is how I did it. I'm not saying it's right or wrong - all I know is it WORKED. If anyone else has some insight, suggestions, additional information, or critique please share. I was able to do this task in about 2 hours, and the only cost was the price of the oil. I hope this helps you!

Update August 2014: I'm about done with a second mowing season since changing the oil and everything still works great. Plenty of power and no issues!

Update September 2015: Tractor is working just fine! Had to replace the choke cable and ignition switch, but the transaxle is working great. I've been cutting grass here in Maryland at least once a week since Spring, and I'm definitely getting my mileage out this Murray.

Update July 2016: I can't believe it's been 3 years since I wrote this post, but I'm still cutting grass with the same Murray riding mower, and no issues at all with that transaxle since changing the fluid. I'm still cutting grass every week from April until late Fall and my Murray is working just fine. Certainly getting my money's worth out of it.

82 comments:

  1. Thanks for your article. I'm going through the same thing you are right now. I will definitely try this. Can't decide whether to use the 20w-50 synthetic oil or hydraulic fluid?

    ReplyDelete
  2. I know you can buy transaxle fluid, but it's a little pricey. I did some reviews online and the 20W-50 was mentioned as a substitute, so I decided to give it a try. I've been running the tractor for the second mowing season and it's still running great on the 20W-50. Hope this helps.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi Johnny, I had to buy a used transaxle. I'm still thinking about changing the oils in it. Auto-Zone has got Lucas all-purpose hydraulic fluid 128 oz for $20. I thought that was very reasonable although I wish they had a smaller amount for sale. This is the description "Exceeds performance requirements for agricultural, construction and other off-highway and industrial equipment. Meets all OEM specifications for powershift transmissions including gears, pumps, differentials, final drives, bearings, wet brakes, transmissions and PTO clutch applications. Meets and exceeds JOHN DEERE specifications J20A and Hy-Gard. Lucas universal hydraulic fluid is blended with the highest quality base oils and the highest quality additive package."

    This sounds like some good stuff although it does not specify the weight it just says not available.

    Just thought I would put it out there in case anybody else is thinking about doing the same thing.

    I still have not decided what fluid to use yet, but leaning towards the lucas hydraulic fluid.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I've decided to go with full synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil. Just as you did. I don't know if the hydraulic fluid is thick enough for the hydro pump. It may well be, but I'm not going to take that gamble. Plus you have had good success. As well as others I have researched on the net.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thanks for the post. It's been a year since I changed the fluid - I've cut grass many times since then (at least once a week during the growing season) and it is still going strong. The 20W 50 has definitely been working. Good luck, let us know how it runs after you change the fluid. - John

    ReplyDelete
  6. Did it take the full two quarts? And what about the hydraulic fluid you mentioned, any maintenance needed there?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Bob, I remember having to buy two quarts but I can't remember if it took all of it, sorry. It was definitely more than one. I think you're asking about the other fluid, which is the gear oil. Mine was pretty dark, so I used a siphon to get out what I could and then replaced it with gear oil you buy at the auto parts store. Hope this helps.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Was that through the small plug or larger one?

      By the way thanks for the info. You inspired me to tackle this job.

      Delete
    2. Bob, see the photo above. The plug under the fan is the hydraulic fluid, the gear oil is the plug over to the right in the photo. That's the one you can siphon out the old gear oil. I can't remember which one was larger... Good luck with the oil change. It's really not that difficult once you jump into it. Let us know how you do.

      Delete
  8. I got the transaxle Thursday. I changed the oil on Thursday evening. I did what you said about trying to get all the air bubbles out. I just moved it from side to side and back and forth. I bought the transaxle used off ebay. The one I had I taken it apart without doing my research first. Big mistake on my part I messed up the hydro pump. I found one on ebay finally after looking over a month. The oil I used was Valvoline full synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil. I used about a quart and a quarter of the other quart. The gear oil I tried to drain without much success. I only had a little to come out. I was going to maybe put some kind of cleaner in it, but I was pressed for time. I only had 24 hrs from delivery date before my warranty ran out. So, I just drained what I could and added 80w gear oil back in. I didn't know how much to put in. I think I put in about 14 oz. It was a little more than halfway full.

    So after doing all that and installing on Friday. I cut the grass with it. At first it was running a little slow. After cutting the front, which takes about an hour. It starting really getting faster. In fact, this was the first time it ran this fast in years. My original transaxle was slowing down also. I hit something with it the beginning of grass season. It didn't move at all. That's why I tore into it, but I messed the hydro pump up.

    Anyway, after cutting the front. The speed started to pick up immensely. I don't know why it was so slow at first, maybe the oil needed to break in or I didn't get all the air bubbles out. All I know is that it ran like it was brand new after.

    I have not run it any since then, but will keep you posted.

    ReplyDelete
  9. What would you use if you wanted to flush out the trans-axle? I purchased the oil on sale for 7 bucks a quart, and need to know what to use instead of the new oil. There has to be some major sludge in there, along with some gear chips. This will be the first time this job is being completed in my 20yr. old Murray. Not to cut down the OP, this is a great blog, but if I'm going thru this with a bad back, I want to do a thorough job to make it last as long as possible. I know once I do all the taking apart parts, I won't feel like doing again in the near future.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can use diesel fuel to clean it out and it won't hurt anything if you can't get it all back out does diesel fuel have oil in it too

      Delete
  10. Jeff, sorry for the delay in responding. For flushing out gear cases, some people have used minerals spirits or kerosene, but I personally wouldn't do that unless I was sure I could dry it out completely. You don't want solvents compromising any good oil you put in there. Gumout makes a flush that is mineral oil and detergents, so that is a suggestion. You can also use some of the new oil if you have extra. Let us know how you make out.

    ReplyDelete
  11. You suggested using a Gumout product as a flush. What is the name of the product?

    ReplyDelete
  12. I believe it's called Gumout Engine Flush and Conditioner. It's used in high mileage automobiles to clean up the oil system. There are other brands too like "Gunk". Unless you have really bad sludge and burnt oil, I think using plain oil to rinse it out may be all you need. Just my opinions, of course.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Johnny,
    Thank you for this blog it save me a lot of money not having to buy a new trans-axle. And after a lot I mean a lot of searches on the internet I found this one. My mower was doing the samething not wanting to go up the hills there was just no power. However yesterday I did the oil change and follow your instruction (but I left the tires on) it worked out great. So after all that was said and done I got on it and let it warm up and then came the true challenge I hit the ditches. Wow no problems there it almost like a new machine again more power and much quiter. I can climb mountains of this thing now.

    Thank you again,
    Kenny

    ReplyDelete
  14. Kenny, thank you for the feedback. I'm really glad this helped you. A couple of courts of new oil is much less expensive than a new transaxle! I'm on the third season since changing the oil and everything is still running strong. Again, thank you for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  15. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thanks for this post. My Murray Model 42598X92 would not move after about 20 minutes and replacing the drive belt didn't make it any better. I was able to remove the transaxle without removing the wheels. With the wheels on I was able to change the oil right on my lawn with spilling a drop. My mower now climbs any hill as long as the wheels don't slip! Thanks again, Harry

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad to help, thanks for posting! - John

      Delete
  17. Going to give it a try tomorrow on my Yard King with this same transmission. Thanks for the information.
    George

    ReplyDelete
  18. I've read the blog, I have the same transmission, it quit on me yesterday and burnt the belt, so I've jacked it up both wheels spin freely but after removing the belt I noticed my input pully will only spin counter clockwise, won't go clockwise at all, I was going to take it out and open it up, any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
  19. I've read the blog, I have the same transmission, it quit on me yesterday and burnt the belt, so I've jacked it up both wheels spin freely but after removing the belt I noticed my input pully will only spin counter clockwise, won't go clockwise at all, I was going to take it out and open it up, any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
  20. I've read the blog, I have the same transmission, it quit on me yesterday and burnt the belt, so I've jacked it up both wheels spin freely but after removing the belt I noticed my input pully will only spin counter clockwise, won't go clockwise at all, I was going to take it out and open it up, any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Jeff, I remember the same thing happened with mine. The wheels would only spin one way. Honestly I can't remember what I did, but I know I didn't have to take it apart. Try spinning the wheels at different speeds, I don't know if there's some clutch or gear alignment issue or what. Maybe someone familiar with the mechanics of these things can offer some insight.

      Delete
  21. And thanks for the info changing the fluids I've searched and searched for for sites on how to work on these and everything I've read says parts aren't available for them from peerless they just want you to buy a new one

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad to help - I also searched everywhere for info and realize how frustrating that can be. I could only find entire transaxles and they were a few hundred dollars shy of buying a whole new tractor.

      Delete
  22. Thanks for your help, I finally figured it out, the free whell rod is under the seat and goes down to a lever with a spring so while I had it jacked up I was rotating the tires and the pully was still frozen from spinning clock wise, so I manually operated the free wheel lever and found where it was stopping was about 1/4 " short of where the spring is supposed to pull it. I pulled it back and forth a couple of times and you could hear a click and feel it when it reset all the way and then the pully started rotating clockwise again, I don't know what or how its all connected in there so I pulled out my box of springs and found one strong enough that the free wheel rod doesn't just flop - you have to pull it pretty hard now to get it to lock in the slot so you can push the mower and in return when you release it the new spring yanks the lever back into operating position. Thanks a lot for your help and maybe what I just posted will help someone else

    ReplyDelete
  23. The drive belt pulleys failed on my 18 year old Scotts lawn tractor--that was the original belt. After replacing drive belt, pulleys etc there was no improvement in speed-reverse was ALWAYS very slow no matter how I adjusted the drive linkage. I decided to drain and replace the oil per this article. I found the problem--my bellows was split allowing oil to leak out. Bought the VST kit and installed--tremendous difference better than original--great speed forward and reverse. Here's a link http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/peerless_transaxle.html

    ReplyDelete
  24. Ever think about drilling and tapping a drain plug into it? If you were to go that route, anywhere in particular a good spot to do so? If you do still read these and wouldn't mind responding, could you possibly e-mail me? Its the best and easiest way for me. Thank you in advance, Aaron

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oops lol! Its a4patton@gmail.com Thanks again

      Delete
  25. The concern I would have with drilling and tapping a drain plug would be ensuring I have enough metal for good thread engagement. I can't offer advice as I just don't know the wall thickness on areas of the transaxle casing. If you tried it and found out it was too thin to hold a plug without leaking, now you have a hole in your $$ transaxle. Maybe someone else has done this, or can offer some advice. I personally wouldn't take a chance, but that's just me!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Replies
    1. No, but I think synthetic oil would probably handle the heat better before breaking down. I really don't know how much heat one of these transaxles creates, so it may not even be an issue.

      Delete
  27. Hi there! I just bought a used Scotts riding lawn mower, model 42589X8, and I believe it has the same transmission as your tractor. I've only had it for a month, only mowing with it twice, and while it drives fine it sounds noisy when the drive is engaged. I was thinking of checking fluid levels through the two plug holes on the top as illustrated in your post. Do you know if I could I just top off both sides with oil and hydraulic fluid? In other words, is it possible to "over-fill" it will fluid and damage it?

    ReplyDelete
  28. David, I'll let others chime in if I'm wrong but I don't think you can overfill the hydraulic oil part of the transaxle - you want the air out anyways. With the gear oil, however I'd be concerned with foaming. I read in a manual somewhere that you should have 1/2" of 90 weight gear oil in that area. As far as the noise, that may or may not be coming from inside the transaxle. I would check the belts, the pulleys (keys, etc. to make sure something is not loose)? Maybe jack up the back and spin the tires without the engine running to see if there is anything obvious. Hopefully it didn't get so low on oil to where gears or hydraulic components were damaged in there. Good luck!

    ReplyDelete
  29. I took your advice.and thank you I just took off the rear plate ( trailer hitch) tipped it up in front .removed the bellow drained it then picks up the rear and used one and a half QTS of 20 50 oil .it works perfect .. Thank u so much !!

    ReplyDelete
  30. I have had the same issues with this sluggish performance. My mower barely moves forward but seems to do fine in reverse. Also when I lift up the clutch pedal and the drive belt engages, it sounds like there is a horrible whining noise from the Trans axle. Has anyone else had a noise like this? Will changing the oil do the trick? I looked in the plug hole and the oil looked pretty dirty. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  31. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Thank you very much Johny. I think you helped out many people with this article, including me! The transmission works like it is a new one.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Had similar issues with my Murray rider last year at the end of the season. I have a farm acreage I mow with it and need to get it mowed. I read through all of the comments here and not knowing Jack about lawnmowers, hopefully I learned enough to figure it out.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Had similar issues with my Murray rider last year at the end of the season. I have a farm acreage I mow with it and need to get it mowed. I read through all of the comments here and not knowing Jack about lawnmowers, hopefully I learned enough to figure it out.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Let us know how you made out. Hopefully this was your problem and you were able to fix it.

      Delete
  35. It's taking me more than 2 hours just to try and figure out how to disconnect the transaxle. Obviously I am no mechanic but figure it out as I go. And why does the transaxle use hydraulic fluid? I have a hydraulic jack, can I use the same fluid for the mower as I do the jack?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Tom, there are many types of hydraulic fluids as there are oils - each has properties designed for their use. The fluids used in transmissions is designed for higher temperatures, have different friction qualities, and usually have special detergents to allow them to last longer. I would not risk using something other than a transaxle fluid - the cost of a new transaxle isn't worth it in case it doesn't work. My opinion of course!

      Delete
  36. I first needed to say that I have a murray riding mower. the pedal for forward and reverse move, but the mower no longer moves. the last several times I used the mower, I noticed the forward/backward pedal would seem to not always work, but once it did, I had no problem going forward and putting it reverse rather quickly. Today, I started the mower and it would not go either direction. I'm hoping it's the transaxle fluid that needs to be filled (after emptying whatever is left)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hope that's the issue. As long as the pedal is moving and not binding up, it's very possible the fluid is the culprit. Especially if it's the original oil...

      Delete
  37. Preformed this task today to my murray rider I bought used wouldn't even pull a small Hill or go very fast after finishing I immediately noticed it was alot better it now will pull a 45 degree Hill no problem and it runs faster. I would not recommend even taking out the rubber plugs there almost impossible to get back in.

    ReplyDelete
  38. I have a 1999 murray 42591x8b that barely moves. Garage kept and only around 50 hours on it. Brought to shop last year and requested both belts replaced since they were over 10 years old and the blade belt was worn. I also asked to check for other problems. They did not replace the drive belt. They told me it was fine, but I think they forgot, plus I requested it changed. Anyway, I mowed 3 times before the mower slowed to a crawl. Now it is worse. No way it can make it up the smallest incline. I read a few forums about others having problems with this Murray, as well as the others like in this thread. I am not mechanically inclined. Some say if it is the transmission then it cannot be repaired. I see others mention being a repair kit that fixes it. If it is not the belt or other issue and ends up being the transmission, can my model be fixed by changing the fluid?
    Thanks in advance!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wayne, the symptoms are certainly those attributed to either a need for an oil change or being low on oil.
      In my opinion, it can't hurt to change the oil - it's inexpensive compared to a new transmission and it just might be the fix. It's not difficult to do if you follow the instructions here - the "repair kit" others mention is most likely the rubber bellows. You have to take it out anyways to change the oil and it'll give you a chance to inspect it. If it's got a hole in it, then that's an easy replacement. More than likely you can reuse it, though. A new transaxle (if you can even find one) is several hundred dollars - not worth it considering the price of a new riding mower. For the price of some oil, I highly recommend changing the oil considering the age of the tractor. If you don't think you can do it, maybe there's a local small engine shop near you that can. Let us know how you made out, hopefully that's all that's wrong with it. Good luck!

      Delete
    2. Johnny, are you saying to change engine oil or referring to transmission fluid/oil? I'm hoping you mean engine oil, but guessing you mean the other. Looking at my records, the engine oil has not been changed since 2006 and it was only used for 15 hours since then. I may of added a little since then. New air filter when the belt was changed last year. As mentioned I'm not mechanically inclined. I was reading manual and it said I had to remove housing to change belt. I looked at the Murray diagram and was easily confused. The transaxle is way more then I know how to deal with. I inherited this from my dad.

      Delete
    3. Wayne, I'm referring to the transaxle fluid.

      Delete
    4. Thanks again. Just double checking. I was sure hoping it was engine oil. Haaaa! So… it is incorrect on the threads that say the 1999 murray 42591x8b fluid cannot be changed.
      If the mower repair shop says that, then I guess I look elsewhere.

      Delete
  39. I have a Murray rider with this transmission, instead of removing the transaxle I used a pump to pump out the fluid. I don't think I got quite all of the fluid out, but I did manage to get 26oz out of it. Mine was a little noisy after getting hot, but still pulled decent. I checked the speed before and after and it was about the same at 3.6 mpg in forward and 2.6 in reverse. I'm curious to know what speed other people are getting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  40. I just changed the hydrostatic oil in my (205-024C) tranny and and also put some new 80/90 wt. in the gear box now my tractor will not go backward/backup but will go forward. Before I did that it did go both directions. I have checked the linkage and cannot find anything wrong. I adjusted the pedal linkage and it did not help. I filled the hydrostatic reservoir full so that when I replaced the bellows oil came out all around it as I was tightening it down. Do you think I put too much oil (Mobil synthetic 20 50) in it? I rocked the unit until all the air bubbles were out. I never took anything loose just the brake cable, spring, the neutral rod, and the shift rod. What could have gone wrong unless it is excessive oil. Anybody, please help.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Well by the Grace of God I was able to solve my problem with the tranny. You know I said it would not go in reverse. After checking everything possible that could be wrong and found every thing to be in order, I jacked up the rear end and pushed the pedal forward and of course the wheels turned. I then pressed the pedal rearward and it just groaned and made no attempt to go in gear. So I reasoned that I had nothing to lose so I stomped on the rear of the pedal and with a couple of stomps it went in reverse gear and the wheels started to move backwards, I said praise the Lord. I tried it up a hill and it walked right up with no problem. Going to cut some grass this evening and see how it holds up. If you don't hear from me you know it worked out okay. I don't know what the problem could have been as I did not take any thing loose except linkage. Could it have been a air bubble in the system. If any one have any thing to say please feel free to chime in. Thank you and have a blessed and great day.

    ReplyDelete
  42. I just want to thank you Johnny Mack for your blog. It was because of you that I was inspired to do the work. You are a blessing not only to me, but to countless others. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad I could help! Thanks for posting. - John

      Delete
  43. Thanks Johnny for your info. Of course had the same exact problems as you and a lot of people. Followed your instructions and it worked perfectly, for about 5hrs or so of use. Back to the same sluggish, struggling problem. Used Lucas 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil and changed out the gear box oil as well with appropriate oil.??? I'm stumped..any suggestions before I take the axle back out and crack open the case....I mean if its not working, I may as well try to take it apart to see if I can fix a problem..Peerless (the company) is a JOKE. No help from them other than saying, "You can purchase a replacement"...Ummm...NO not form them..I don't know how they can get away with not supplying parts..Even says in the manual that you must replace it with new if there is a problem..oh well..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Garrett, sorry to hear the transaxle is giving you issues. If it really is something mechanical, I just don't know if you could get parts. As you found out, they always want to sell a whole new transaxle... Before you crack it open though, I would check a couple things. Be sure you got all the air out - I'm sure you did that when you changed the oil but it's just one thing to rule out. Another thing would be the drive belt or drive pulley. Make sure nothing is slipping. If the shaft is not turning, then the transaxle isn't pumping fluid. The manual also has some instructions for adjusting the linkage, but I personally don't think that is ever an issue after it's initially set. You said it ran for 5 hours or so - could the oil have leaked out? Possible leak at the gasket when the cover was reinstalled? Just a few things off the top of my head. Hope it's an easy fix.

      Delete
  44. Thanks Johnny for the prompt reply. Yep everything you have mentioned, I have gone over.All the air bubbles were out. After filling the case with oil, I left it propped up and put a heat lamp on it overnight to warm the case and to thin the oil enough for the bubbles to work out. Then of course, rocked back and forth to make sure there was no more air. The bellows, sealed and hold a vacuum. I know there are no new parts for it, but may be able to gain some knowledge on the internals that I may be able to share. Don't plan on opening up the pump, but want to see if I can get a pressure reading on it..I will figure out how once I see it..If it's something like, bushings, a seal, weak spring(s), ect. I will get all the specs I can and see if there is another brand that will work, or fab one..I will keep you and the blog posted.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Be sure and check your rod that allow you to push the tractor because if it's not in the run position it will not move. I had to oil mine and now it's good flexible. Hope this helps.

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  45. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  46. Shiver me timbers!!! I did 'xactly us you prescribed and BOOM! off she went! Thanks so much Matey!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awesome! Glad to hear it was successful. Thanks for the feedback. -John

      Delete
  47. Worked for me too. Dropped rear, filled with 15-50 Mobil one, and all is good and mowing again.

    ReplyDelete
  48. Is the belt on the transaxle suppost to be loose??

    ReplyDelete
  49. Only when the brake is on. When the brake is depressed the belt becomes loose and you should be able to remove it from the fly wheel that sets on top of the transaxle. When you release the brake the belt should tighten up and you should not be able to remove it. Hope this helps.

    ReplyDelete
  50. Hello, I'm french sorry in advance for the bad translation.
    I have the same problem as you, and I'm afraid to breakage.
    To sum must be 42 oz for the hydraulic pump 20w50 Motorcycle Engine Oil?
    And for gears: 14 oz of oil 75W80?

    thank you in advance

    ReplyDelete
  51. Hello.
    I turned into the TECUMSEH 205-024B. I replaced it with hydraulic oil and put it in the machine's voice was high if it goes forward, reverse a bit quieter. Maybe it is not enough oil that have poured into it? How much oil is poured into it? The answer Thank you in advance: Alexander Klenczner

    ReplyDelete
  52. Hi,
    Just did this to my Viking MT435H mower which also uses the Peerless 205 transaxle. Being in Australia I'd have to order the bellows kit from the USA but decided to just re-use the original one as it didn't have any splits.
    I put extra oil in where the bellows goes, put bellows and plate back on then put the transaxle level and popped the filler plug out, a bit of oil came out everywhere but I'm pretty confident no air was in the system because I got it all back together and away she went.

    Very happy knowing its working better than ever.

    I used Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 oil.
    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awesome. Thank you for sharing from Australia. Good job!

      Delete
  53. fantastic advice i have 3countax mowers with same similar axle i stripped one for parts as it lost drive one i use every week in mowing season and has no attention to axle in 20 years but is much slower than it used to be so will use this advice as have just spent three days welding up cutting deck .if you own a countax check axle support brackets as they crack and can suddenly break if used in sloping lawns.. thanks again may be get another 10 years use?????????

    ReplyDelete
  54. Hi, my name is Steve, and I'm from Pittsburgh Pa. All I gotta say is I'm glad I ran across this thread ! I have a 1998 Murray 20 hp 46" cut rider mower, with a plow. I picked it in excellent condition, and really cheap (150.00). All I wanted it for was to pull a cart around with firewood and stone in my yard. After getting it home and running it for about 10 minutes, the thing would barely pull me in the level---climbing any kind of grade at all wasn't happening. I started googling the problem I was having after replacing a pretty worn motion drive belt, but that didn't fix the problem. When I came across this thread and read all the comments, I figured I had to at least try to change out the fluid in the transaxle. I pulled the transaxle out of the mower, pressure washed all the gunk from the outside, pulled the cover and bellows and drained the fluid as per the advice here. I had a case of Amsoil 20w50 synthetic motor oil for my Harley, and I filled the thing back up and put the bellows and cover back on. Reinstalled the transaxle into the mower, and started it up. I pulled it out of the garage and drive around on the level for about 8-10 minutes. I swear it got faster the more I drove it, so I decided to try to drive it up my buddy's driveway, which is a pretty decent incline. The mower drive up it like it was on the level. I drive up and down the driveway in forward and reverse about 10 times and I really do think it was climbing better on every trip up it. I then decided to try and get daring and try to climb the grassy hillside next to my garage. It's pretty steep, actually steep enough to cause you to get winded a lil walking up it. It took the hill almost to the very top, the front tires actually started lifting off the ground and then the rear tires broke free in the grass and started spinning, so I backed back down the hill with a huge smile on my face !!! All I wanna say is THANK YOU ALL !!! All the advice on this thread saved me a ton of cash and having to go buy another mower. Hopefully this one lasts me a couple years, and if it ever happens again, I'll try to change out the oil before getting rid of it ! Again, thank you all !!

    ReplyDelete
  55. Hi, my name is Tom, I'm from Australia. I have played with these transmissions for many many years as a backyard mechanic. The last two transmissions I had failed due to internal pieces breaking. I just completed my disassembly and reassembly last weekend, and as usual, a broken roll pin prevented the reverse from working. All fixed now and reassembled with gasket maker. Anyone looking for photos or hints in disassembly, please ask. Btw, I have tried all types of oils in the hydrostatic and have found Valvoline 20-50 to work the best, and is cheap too.

    ReplyDelete
  56. Thank you for that post I hope this help me out my issue is less power in reverse but when I let off my brake to engage the trans axle I get a Honorable sound like a loud grinding but has no effect on the operation of the tractor but I will try that oil change and see what happens Thank again buddy.

    ReplyDelete
  57. Hello I am John from South Australia. Thanks for the information. My Murray / Victa 42 inch mower with the Peerless transmission has had the same go slow, almost no go, as described. New belt and checked tension etc. still no better. Changed the Hydrostatic oil for Nulon 20W50 semi synthetic oil, 1.25 Litres and topped up gear oil. My old oil had fine bubbles and was way under capacity.
    Everything is working perfectly now.
    Thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. John, glad to hear this helped you. Thanks for sharing!

      Delete